Sand
Jordan · March to April and October to November
Wadi Rum
Sandstone towers, Bedouin camps and the quietest night sky in the Middle East

Adventures · Across sand and salt, planned around the sun and the water
Desert traverse
A desert traverse is a trip organised by the hours: walking at dawn, moving at dusk, sleeping at noon, counting water. Wadi Rum on foot and camel, the Namib by gravel and dune, the Atacama by 4x4 and the Brazilian dunes with lagoons between them.
A desert is a place where the sun sets the timetable. The work happens at dawn and dusk, the middle of the day belongs to shade and sleep, and the night is the reward: temperatures that fall twenty degrees, and a sky with no light for a hundred kilometres. The places in this adventure run from the sandstone towers of Wadi Rum to the salt of Uyuni and the white dunes of Brazil where the lagoons appear.
What it asks of the body
Heat tolerance and discipline about water more than fitness. The dune climb at Sossusvlei is ninety minutes of soft sand; the rest is walking and riding at a pace the sun allows. The Climate Simulator shows why the month matters more than the destination: the same dune is a pleasure in May and a punishment in January.
What it asks of the calendar
Four months in every desert, and they are different months: spring and autumn in Jordan, winter in the southern hemisphere, the northern winter in the Danakil. Outside them the days are lost to heat and the camps empty.
What it costs
Deserts are cheap to be in and expensive to reach. Bedouin camps and Bolivian refuges sit in the low band; the Namibian lodges inside the park gate are the mid to high band and buy the extra hour of dawn.
Essentials
- Three litres of water per person on a walking day, more above thirty degrees
- Long sleeves, long trousers, a wide hat and a scarf for sand in the wind
- A warm layer for the night; deserts drop twenty degrees after sunset
- Category-four sunglasses on salt and white sand
- A guide beyond the camp; everything looks the same at ground level
Risks
- ▲▲HeatHeat illness is the desert killer; it arrives as a headache and confusion and the prevention is water, shade and the noon rest.
- ▲▲ColdWinter nights in Wadi Rum and the Atacama drop below freezing; the bag matters more than the tent.
- ▲▲Getting lostWalking out of sight of camp is how people die in deserts; the guide and the rule of staying put.
- ▲▲Flash floodsRare and lethal in canyons; the guides know which drain and when to leave.
Questions people ask
How much water?
Three litres a person on a walking day in the mid twenties, four or five above thirty. The Pack Simulator counts it as weight, which is why desert walking days are short.
Is it cold at night?
Yes, everywhere on this list: freezing in Wadi Rum and the Atacama in winter, minus ten in the Namib in July. Deserts lose their heat the moment the sun goes.
Camel, 4x4 or on foot?
The 4x4 covers the ground, the camel and the feet cover the silence. The best desert days mix a vehicle in the morning with a walk in the evening.
Places for this adventure
Sand
Jordan · March to April and October to November
Wadi Rum
Sandstone towers, Bedouin camps and the quietest night sky in the Middle East
Sand
Namibia · May to September
Sossusvlei and Deadvlei
The tallest dunes on earth and a clay pan of trees that died nine centuries ago
Sand
Chile · March to May and September to November
Atacama Desert
The driest place on earth, geysers at 4,300 metres and salt lakes with flamingos
Fire
Ethiopia · November to February
Danakil Depression
A lava lake, acid springs in yellow and green, and a salt plain 120 metres below the sea
Otherworld
Bolivia · January to March for the mirror
Salar de Uyuni
The largest salt flat on earth, a mirror in the wet season and a white desert in the dry
Water
Brazil · June to September: the lagoons are full and the rain has stopped
Lençóis Maranhenses
A desert of white dunes that fills with turquoise lagoons every winter
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