Tausim Travel · Adventure · Unique Places · Simulation
Dragon’s blood trees, bottle trees and an island that evolved on its own for twenty million years

Island · Yemen

Socotra

A Yemeni island closer to Somalia than to the mainland, where a third of the plants exist nowhere else, the beaches are empty white dunes and the only way in is a weekly flight.

Best window: February to April; October and November after the monsoonDays needed: 7 to 8

Socotra split from the mainland around twenty million years ago and spent the time inventing its own plants. A third of them exist nowhere else: the dragon’s blood tree with its umbrella crown and red sap, the bottle trees swollen against the drought, the cucumber tree. The island belongs to Yemen but sits closer to Somalia, and the war on the mainland has not reached it. There is one flight a week, from Abu Dhabi, and every trip is the same length: the days between two of them.

What the model says

Two windows around the monsoon. February to April is the safe one: highs near thirty, calm seas, dry. October and November work after the wind drops. From June to September the south-west monsoon closes the sea, cancels the flight and empties the island. The daylight barely changes at twelve degrees north; what changes is the wind, and the model tracks that as a risk rather than a temperature.

What the ground says back

Everyone camps, because the island’s beauty is a day’s drive from the town and there is nothing to stay in when you get there. The beaches at Arher and Shoab are empty white sand with dunes leaning on the cliffs, the plateaus are dragon’s blood forest, the canyons have pools, and the sky at night is the equal of any desert. Comfort is low, wonder is as high as this site goes. Choose the operator by the quality of the guides and the camping kit.

Days

The flight sets the trip at seven or eight days, which happens to be right. Yemen’s mainland is off limits; the island is its own country in every way except the passport stamp.

A sample day

  1. 06:00Wake on the dunes at Arher, a river running into the sea beside the tent
  2. 07:00Climb the white dune that leans against the cliff, the whole east coast below
  3. 09:30Drive to the Hoq cave, an hour up the hill, stalagmites and drawings of sailors
  4. 13:00Lunch in the shade of a bottle tree, fish and rice
  5. 15:00The Diksam plateau, the first dragon’s blood trees standing like open umbrellas
  6. 17:00Down into the Wadi Dirhur canyon, a swim in a pool of turquoise
  7. 18:30Sunset among the trees on the Firmihin plateau, red sap on the bark
  8. 21:00Camp under the trees, goat stew, a sky as clear as any desert

A sample plan · 8 days

  1. Day 1Fly Abu Dhabi to Hadibo, first night on the coast at Delisha beach.
  2. Day 2Arher dunes and the east coast, camp on the beach.
  3. Day 3Hoq cave and the Homhil plateau with its bottle trees and pools.
  4. Day 4Diksam plateau and Firmihin: the dragon’s blood forest, Wadi Dirhur canyon.
  5. Day 5The south coast: Aomak beach and the dunes at Hayf.
  6. Day 6Detwah lagoon and Qalansiyah in the west, the cave man’s fishing lesson.
  7. Day 7Shoab beach by boat, dolphins on the way, back to Qalansiyah.
  8. Day 8Return to Hadibo for the weekly flight home.
Climate by monthMonthly normals, rounded. Highs and lows in °C, rain days per month.
272028203022322433263327312631263225312329222821JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec322332333454
Daylightday length on the 15th of each month at 12.5° N
  • 11.5hJan
  • 11.7hFeb
  • 12.1hMar
  • 12.4hApr
  • 12.7hMay
  • 12.9hJun
  • 12.8hJul
  • 12.5hAug
  • 12.2hSep
  • 11.8hOct
  • 11.5hNov
  • 11.4hDec

What can go wrong

  • ▲▲▲IsolationOne flight a week; a missed or cancelled flight is a week on the island.
  • ▲▲Heat and sunThirty degrees with a white beach reflecting it; long sleeves and shade at noon.
  • ▲▲SeaCurrents off the beaches are strong; swim where the guides swim.
  • ▲▲ComfortCamping every night, water from tanks, no mobile signal for most of the trip.

Getting there

A weekly flight from Abu Dhabi, sold through Socotra tour operators with the visa included. On the island you travel with a local guide and driver, camping most nights on beaches and in the mountains; there are a couple of basic hotels in Hadibo.

Hub Abu Dhabi, weekly charter flight

Permits Yemeni visa arranged by the operator; the island is administered separately from the mainland conflict and has been calm, but the advice changes and the operator knows first.

Avoid June to September: the south-west monsoon brings winds that close the sea and cancel flights.

Questions people ask

Is Socotra safe given the situation in Yemen?

The island has been calm and administered separately from the mainland war, and operators have run trips since 2019. It remains a place to research the week before you fly, and the flight route through Abu Dhabi is the only one.

Do I have to camp?

Effectively yes. Hadibo has two basic hotels; the island’s beauty is at the beaches and plateaus a day’s drive away, and the camps are part of the point.

When is the best time?

February to April: warm, dry, calm seas. October and November after the monsoon are also good. From June to September the wind closes the island.

Field Notes

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